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Breaking News: Iris van Herpen Reveals Revolutionary 3D-printed Wedding Dress

Mariana Pavani, a Brazilian tax lawyer, donned a cutting-edge creation for her wedding in São Paulo on May 11. The intricate garment, which required 41 hours to print, showcased her unique style and technological flair.

The unveiling of the world's first 3D-printed wedding dress by Iris van Herpen. GEORGINA ABREU/WWD

The unveiling of the world's first 3D-printed wedding dress by Iris van Herpen. GEORGINA ABREU/WWD


How many wedding dresses have a file size?

We are aware of only one wedding, which took place on May 11 and featured a cutting-edge gown by Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen. The bride was Brazilian tax lawyer Mariana Pavani. Van Herpen is known for her innovative use of 3D printing in fashion, and her earlier design from 2010, which featured overlapping shells, was recently showcased at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

In contrast, Pavani's bridal gown possesses a delicate and ethereal quality. The intricate frost-like pattern on the bodice and throat adds a touch of futuristic allure, while the gown's solid appearance masks its surprising flexibility and durability.

There are no visible lines or divisions. This couldn't be achieved using a standard approach," stated van Herpen, whose Amsterdam studio dedicated 600 hours to bringing the design to life. Prior to that, they extensively experimented with ZBrush, a digital sculpting software.

“This was truly a dream project for me, as 3D-printed fashions have made their way into museums and runways. However, seeing it worn by someone on their most special day adds a whole new level of significance,” she said.

"I was really looking for a one-of-a-kind dress, something that stands out," Pavani shared over Zoom from her home in São Paulo about a week before the ceremony. "Right from the start, I had high hopes for the dress to feature the cutting-edge technology of 3D printing in its design."

The 3D-printed elements extend beyond the bodice of the gown. COURTESY OF EUKAWEDDINGS

The 3D-printed elements extend beyond the bodice of the gown. COURTESY OF EUKAWEDDINGS


The process began with a 3D body scan of Pavani, followed by multiple in-person fittings of the hand-pleated base dress. The delicate fabric and 3D-printed elements were carefully combined at a specialized facility in Paris.

According to van Herpen, the 3D design had a file size of 216.7 MB and took 41 hours to print.

She mentioned that there were multiple trial runs for the 3D-printed components, and the careful pleating had to align perfectly with the bodice design. So you possess the artistic components, along with a sense of grace and dynamism. And that is the contrast that I really love," said the designer, who had a background in dance before becoming a couturier.

Despite incorporating advanced technology and innovative techniques, the end product evoked intense human emotions.

"It was an unforgettable moment for her. The dress brought tears to her eyes, creating a magical experience," van Herpen said, expressing her joy and looking up with a sense of wonder.

“It was difficult to hold back my tears,” Pavani admitted. "We had accomplished all of my desired goals." The final design exudes a sense of confidence and femininity, creating a truly distinctive and individual appearance.

Pavani also praised van Herpen's exceptional team for their warm welcome and inclusion in the creative process. There was also a great deal of effort put into ensuring that the final design fit and felt just right on my body. They took into account every detail, from how the dress flatters me to its movement and texture, and even the veil's length in relation to the wedding chapel.

Pavani mentioned that her fiancé, composer and art collector Roberto Toscano, was the one who introduced her to van Herpen's work. He even arranged for tickets to her fall 2022 fashion show in Paris.

She was amazed by the graceful movement of the dresses, the seamless flow of the collection, and Iris' evident passion for nature. The experience truly resonated with her. Immediately, we reached out to the team to explore the possibility of designing a wedding dress.

The unveiling of the world’s first 3D-printed wedding dress by Iris van Herpen. GEORGINA ABREU/WWD

The unveiling of the world’s first 3D-printed wedding dress by Iris van Herpen. GEORGINA ABREU/WWD



Van Herpen expressed a deep connection with Pavani, as they both have a passion for nature, art, and pushing the limits.

"I aimed to infuse a sense of femininity while also incorporating a modern and edgy feel, as she is a truly unique individual." The designer was very impressed with Pavani's ability to confidently express herself. “We both believe that fashion is a form of art. She fearlessly embraces her true self, exuding femininity while incorporating the latest technological influences.

Van Herpen seamlessly combines traditional couture techniques such as pleating, draping, and beading with cutting-edge elements like silicon molding and laser-cutting, which are integral to her brand identity.

She was amazed by the impressive features of the Paris printer, which she stumbled upon just a year ago. She was amazed by the exceptional quality of the flexible material, specifically referring to the nylon polymer known as PA 12. She can comfortably use it for various activities without worrying about its flexibility diminishing over time.

There are still many misconceptions surrounding the use of 3D printing in the fashion industry, leading some to believe it is technically inappropriate.

It can be quite intricate. Yes, you need to gain expertise in it, but once you understand it, I don't believe it's any more challenging than some of the more conventional methods of working," van Herpen said.

Regarding the misconception that 3D-printed fashions are unwearable, that notion is outdated. Thanks to advancements in materials and flexibility, these garments are now incredibly comfortable.

She expressed satisfaction with the progress made since 2010, when she first discovered her initial 3D-printed garment. According to her, scientists spent a considerable amount of time and effort developing innovative solutions and conducting rigorous tests to address the challenges related to durability and flexibility.

Indeed, Pavani's dress is low-maintenance and doesn't need any special attention. Just like a delicate wedding gown, this cleaning process cannot be done in a washing machine. However, it is perfectly suitable for dry cleaning. And for storage, simply hang it up. "It's incredibly lightweight," van Herpen remarked.

According to van Herpen, 3D printing allows for a great deal of creative freedom in her designs. She believes that the unique look showcased on this bride would not be possible using any other method. The intricate design of these files is beyond what can be achieved manually. It is not possible to achieve that through any form of pattern-making.

She expressed her appreciation for the seamless and smooth nature of it, highlighting the cleanliness as a particularly appealing aspect. Many individuals may still experience some apprehension when it comes to the process of 3D printing due to its uniqueness. However, once you have your own 3D printer, it opens up a world of possibilities and grants you a great deal of creative freedom.

It is important to stay informed about global developments in various industries, as they can have a significant impact on your business.

The unveiling of the world’s first 3D-printed wedding dress by Iris van Herpen. GEORGINA ABREU/WWD

The unveiling of the world’s first 3D-printed wedding dress by Iris van Herpen. GEORGINA ABREU/WWD


Considering the uniqueness of her wedding dress, Pavani understands that not everyone will share the same level of appreciation for it as she does.

Just like any form of art, opinions about the dress will vary. "I accept that," she said. However, the structure that attaches to the neck, created through 3D printing, holds great symbolism for me. The neck element has a resemblance to the eyes of an owl, which is often linked to wisdom in the Brazilian religion of Candomblé. I have a profound fascination for both spirituality and nature.

Indeed, Pavani views the dress as a masterpiece that she intends to showcase in her apartment.

“Both Roberto and I are extremely pleased with Iris' work on my wedding dress,” she said. "It's an incredible work of art."

Roberto Toscano and Mariana Pavani on their wedding day. COURTESY OF EUKA WEDDINGS
Roberto Toscano and Mariana Pavani on their wedding day. COURTESY OF EUKA WEDDINGS




by Miles Socha

source: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/3d-printed-wedding-dress-iris-herpen-1236331578/

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